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Building this project requires the use of tools that are capable of serious injury to you. If you attempt to build this project or something similar be sure you wear safety glasses and use all necessary safety precautions.
If you are not familiar with the use of the tools required, 2 meter antenna plans assistance from someone who is familiar with their proper use.
The original goal was to have an antenna that I could use for 2 meter SSB. Since I like to tinker and build things I thought building an antenna would be a good idea.
I wanted an antenna that was simple, 2 meter antenna plans, horizontally polarized and omni directional. I knew that some people have had good luck using horizontally polarized loop antennas so I thought I would try to make one myself. I knew that the antenna would not have the gain in one direction that would be obtained using a beam antenna, but that was not the goal.
The goal was to be able to hear local stations in their various dispersed locations without rotating a beam. If you have similar goals this type of antenna might suit your needs. If 2 meter antenna plans are looking for the ultimate long range contact then a beam with a rotor is still the better option.
I looked around on the web and found a couple of different designs that helped me starch and diabetes started. After building two different versions of the loop I came up with something that worked. It was a copper loop antenna with a capacitive fed gamma match. I had to 2 meter antenna plans the gamma match several times to get something that worked.
I liked the way the antenna worked so I built a second one and stacked them for some additional gain using a phasing harness with impedance matching. They seemed to work pretty well but the harness and antennas were pretty flimsy. I had to disassemble the system several times due to a house move and a home construction project.
I found that each time I had to touch the set up, 2 meter antenna plans, something would go wrong. That is why I decided to try to build something that was a little more reliable. The antenna I show here is my third generation design.
The goal for this next design was to build something that I could get a good SWR response. I also wanted a design that allowed for adjustment. And and third goal was easy construction using parts available from the local hardware supply. I wanted good mechanical reliability and a minimum of metal support components that might affect the 2 meter antenna plans of the antenna. As a result of these goals I had to play around with the design until I found something that gave me a good SWR match.
It took me a little longer, but now I have a design that I think will work well. The fiberglass mast I selected is a 1 inch rod that is 72 inches long. I was able to find the rod at my local TAP Plastics 2 meter antenna plans. The price was really more than I 2 meter antenna plans to pay but I figured it would last a long time. The fiberglass mast I purchased is shown in the image to the left of this text. Click on the image to see a larger picture. The next thing to consider was how to mount the fiberglass mast to the top of the metal push-up mast.
I decided to make a plate with holes drilled in it to allow the bottom of the fiberglass mast to be bolted to one side of the plate and the top of the metal mast to be bolted to the other side of the 2 meter antenna plans. I used U-bolts to secure the masts to the metal plate, two U-bolts rubbber mulch and asthma the fiberglass mast and two for the metal mast.
The fist picture below is a picture of the metal 2 meter antenna plans marked and ready to tonsil cancer and prognosis and squamous. The second picture anemia immune cytoxan the plate after the holes have been drilled. You will notice three other items in the second picture besides the metal plate.
There is a U-bolt that is one of four that will be used to secure the two masts to the plate. I cut one of these couplers into four semi circle sections to act as a spacing shims between the U-bolts and the fiberglass mast. I split the coupler length-wise with a hack saw and then cut each half section in half across the circumference to give me the four separate pieces.
One thing to note is that the coupler has a ridge on the interior surface that you will need to avoid or you will end up having to file it off later. I wanted to use a shim so that the diameter of the fiberglass mast matched more precisely with the diameter of the U-bolts. I also wanted to avoid cutting into the fiberglass mast with the U-bolt when it was tightened down.
In this picture you can see the completed mast plate attached to bottom of the fiberglass mast, 2 meter antenna plans. Notice the two PVC shims installed between mast and the U-bolts. One of the shims was seen in the previous picture prior to installation. Installation of the shims is not absolutely necessary but it is a nice touch that gives the mast a more secure fit to the U-bolts. Antenna Materials The first picture shows the copper tube that was used for the radiating element of the antenna.
The second picture shows the copper that was used to make the gamma match tube. Also shown in the picture is a completed cross boom, the completed gamma tube clamp, and two metal plates that came off the U-bolts, 2 meter antenna plans. These plates were not needed for clamping the mast to the mast plate.
However they will be used for clamping the antenna boom to the mast later in the assembly. A piece of the plastic tube that I used for the radiating element separator is also shown. Antenna Construction Details The first item that I will describe is the boom. This is used to secure the antenna to the mast. It also holds the two ends of the antenna loop apart. The boom is made out of schedule 40 PVC electrical conduit.
This material is good because it is an insulator and is also made to be UV light resistant. It is also easy to work with. Once that was done I drilled the necessary holes, 2 meter antenna plans. Two in the center for the U-bolt to go through and one at each end of the boom that are larger. One hole for the radiating element and one slightly larger hole on the other end for the spreader. The spreader is a piece of PVC that I happened to have on hand. Topamax and glacoma next item is the gamma clamp which is also shown in the picture.
This is used to clamp the gamma tube to the radiating element as well as have the ability to be moved. The ability to move the clamp allows you to to move the feed point on the radiating element as well as vary the capacitance of the gamma tube.
A hole is drilled through the center of each piece to allow a screw to be used to clamp the two bars together. I also drilled two different diameter arcs near the end of each section. I used two different drill sizes to match the radius of the two different copper tube diameters. The arcs are not complete semi-circles because I wanted the two bars to be able to clamp to the copper tubes without touching each other.
That way I could ensure a tight fit once the clamp is tightened down. The way I accomplished rheumatology and arthritis and kansas city was to put a spacer between the two bars of metal and clamp them together prior to drilling.
I then drilled a hole in the center of the spacer which left an arc cut into each metal clamp bar. The picture on the left shows the copper tube for the radiating element being measured in preparation for cutting. The radiating element is a single piece of copper tube. I just calculate it using the speed of light as a starting point. The speed of light is approximately miles per second in free space.
Yes I know that miles per second is not exact but it is close enough for our purposes. I want to convert miles to a number that will mean something to me. So I converted the distance to feet, 2 meter antenna plans. Then to convert 6. I just rounded I measured the tube buy 2 meter antenna plans carefully straightening out the tube then measuring 40" as shown in the picture. Please note that you should mark the center point for the ground connection point at this step of the process.
That is what is shown in the second picture on the right. After measuring the center point and marking it, I cut the copper to size. You will notice that the copper is being held in a vice, but please note that this has to be done carefully!
The vise shown in the picture has rubber covers over the metal vise jaws to help protect the surface of the soft copper, 2 meter antenna plans.
Also the vise is clamped on to the copper very lightly, just enough to hold the copper in place while the cut is being made with the hack saw. If you clamp down too tightly the copper tube will be crushed. The second picture shows the end of the copper tube after it was cut.
Notice how rough the end of the tube looks. Before proceeding I smoothed off the ends of the tube with a file, 2 meter antenna plans. I also used a knife to take the burred edges off the inside edge of the tube, 2 meter antenna plans. The next step is to carefully bend the tube back into a circular shape as seen in the left picture.