Project also includes a novel way of getting the rf to and from the shack using coax rather than ladder line. Shown with standard TV type ohm ribbon line. Always check swr at low power before attempting. It can be installed in the horizontal fashion or inverted V style. Get it up as high as possible and have fun! For higher power, use the heavier, ladder, all band ham antenna plans, open or window type. After you have determined the total length of the horizontal section of the antenna, lay that amount of your antenna wire out and cut it in exactly in half.
This will give you two all band ham antenna plans lengths for each half of the antenna. It is suggested that you use 14 or 12 gauge wire. You can use smaller size wire but it will tend to break easier with longer antennas due to weight of ice, snow, birds, wind loads, etc. Attach a center insulator between the two lengths of antenna wire.
See example drawing below: Use your imagination and ham engineering. It should be of all band ham antenna plans size that will allow the antenna wires to be attached tac scan and cancer it from each half of the antenna with strain relief for each wire including the feedline. Your feedline also needs strain relief.
In the drawing above, they are the heavy black lines going across the twinlead. If you use TV type twinlead, this will be a must, all band ham antenna plans. TV twinlead is very fragile and can break easily from too much strain. The weakest point on the twinlead is where the conductors come out of it on the ends. The wires are very small inside and break easily.
Each half of the antenna can go thru holes drilled into the center insulator This type of arrangement provides some strain relief for the antenna wires using the mechanical pressure of the wire against the center insulator.
It is important that there are no sharp edges where the wire enters or exits the holes. Use whatever method that works best for you. Meaning one side of antenna to one conductor of feedline and the other side of the antenna to the other conductor of the feedline.
Do not connect all together in the center! Do yourself a big favor and do not get in a hurry and just twist the wires together at their junctions! They will soon corrode at the twist and create more problems for you than the time saved by not soldering them together! You should provide some sort of weatherproof sealer to the solder joints after you are done soldering If you "cut corners", sometimes a "temporary" installation tends to become permanent when forgotton about Attach end insulators to both ends of the antenna.
As a further note for those that are not experienced with wire antenna building, all band ham antenna plans, there are many ways to build center and end insulators. Do a search on Google. Now assuming that you have plenty of feedline to run from the final operating position up in the air for the antenna after raising it With very long antennas, the weight of the wire and feedline, center insulator etc, causes some sizes of wire to sag in the center.
Then use nylon ties to secure it tightly against the main feedline. After your antenna is up and secure Added notes of information: There are many methods of "hanging" an antenna like this one and various center supports can be used, like towers, metal pushup poles mastsetc. When bringing the feedline down from the antenna to the radio, always keep it away from sharp corners that can cut it due to rubbing in the wind.
If you have a shingled roof, try to keep all band ham antenna plans feed line away from any edges that from rubbing will eventually cut into the feed line.
Remember to keep the feedline away from any metalic object by several inches. Only use it if your tuner does NOT have balanced line connections. In option 2, the balun would go between the feed line and the tuner if the tuner does not have a balanced output.
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